
BAYNE'S 

seIlF-instructiok book 



— FOR— 




— BY— 



The French Glove-Fitting Tailor System. 

BY EXACT MEASURE. 



A Manual for the Use ol Bayne's Paris Scale. 



AGENTS WANTED! 

Address for terms, 

J". K,- BJLYITE, 

225 Sixth Ave., KEWTORK. 




NEW YORK. 



A full line of Dressmakers* Supplies al^vays kept 
on hand, and every article \vill be found as repre- 
sented — the very best made. 



Papier Maehe Lap Boards (bound in brass; very light; will not warp), - $l.O0 

>A^ooden Lap Boards ..--.. 75 to 1 OO 

Best Adjustable Tables, - - - - - - 2 SO to 3 SO 

Plaiting Machines .-....-l OO to lO OO 

Plaiting Machine (that willfold and press at same time), ... 8 OO 

Adjustable Button Hole Scissors, ;..... 68 to 1 OO 

Finest Steel Scissors, 6% and 7 inches, ..... 7S 

Double Sewed Sateen Tape Measures, . - - . - SO 

Tracing "Wheels. . . - . - - - . . 28 to SO 

Double Tracing Wheels, Adjustable, with compass, nickel plated, - - 7S 



The Finest Ladies' and Tailors' Shears made.— Warranted Perfect. 



6 inch Shears, 


$1 00 


9 inch Shears, 


$2 00 


7 " 


- 1 2S 


10 " " 


- 2 25 


8 " " . 


1 80 


11 «' " 


2 SO 


ey, " 


. 1 78 


12 " " 


. 2 73 



Remittances should be by Draft, Postal Order, or American Express Money Order. 
Address all orders, 

J. R. BAYNE, 

MANUFACTURER'S AGENT, 

22B Sixth Avenue, New York. 



BAYNE'S 



SELF-INSTRUCTION BOOK 



DRESS CUTTING 



THE FRENCH GLOVE-FITTING TAILOR SYSTEM. 



BY EXACT MEASURE. 



A Manual for the use of Bayne's Paris Scale. 



^<r\ 



~~1V1AR 20 1884 (I 



Copyright, 1883, by J. Reid BaYne. 



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1^ 






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o 



USE OF DRESS. 



No matter what men may write or say upon the subject, the womanly woman 
will always pay considerable attention to her dress, as she should. Indiffer- 
ence, and consequent inattention to dress, often shows pedantry, self-righteous- 
ness or indolence. It is not a virtue, but a defect in the character. 

Every woman shoiald study to make the best of herself with the means at her 
command. Among the rich the love of dress promotes some degree of exertion 
and display of taste. Among those of moderate means it engenders contrivance, 
diligence and neatness of hand. 

So long as dress merely interests, amuses, occiipies such time and such me.ins 
as we reasonably allot to it, it is salutary; refining the tastes and the habits, and 
giving satisfaction and pleasure to others. Sensible men like to see their wives 
and daughters well dressed. 

The woman who has not some natural taste in dress, some love of novelty, 
some delight in the combination of colors, must be deficient in a sense of the 
beautiful. As a work of art, a well dressed woman is a study. Consistency, in 
regard to station and fortune, is the first thing to be considered. A woman of 
good sense will not wish to expend in unnecessary extravagances money wrung 
from the hands of an anxious, laborious husband; or if her husband be a man 
of fortiine, she will not even then encroach upon her allowance. It will be her 
study to dress well with as little expense as possible; for it is unbecoming to no 
woman's dignity to be careful of the clothes she wears, and to be economical in 
her expenditure. When love of dress is indulged in beyond the compass of 
means, it cannot be too severely condemned. But it is the duty of every woman 
to dress as well as she can. 



'"^4-/^- 33^4 CUir^v/>' 



PREFACE. 



This manual is presented with the hope, and in the belief, 
that it will so entirely simplify the science of dress-cutting, as 
to bring it down to the easy comprehension of the most simple, 
and save the time, trouble and expense of special training by 
a skilled teacher, and the tiresome brain w^ork required to learn 
and use other methods, thus enabling any one to become an 
expert fitter with but little outlay. Favored b}' a fortunate com- 
bination of circumstances, I perfected a device in one piece 
containing all the lines, curves and scales of the most approved 
French rule, in such a convenient form, that a perfect fitting 
pattern can be drawn to measures in five minutes, and so simjjle 
that a child eleven years old has learned to use it in less than 
half a day's time. 

The instant recognition of its value created such demand for 
a knowledge of how to use it that I determined to make a 
special effort to supply an Instruction Book that would be en- 
tirely self-teaching, Avith illustrated directions so clear and plain 
that no one could fail to understand and use the Paris Scale at 
sight. After a careful consideration, based on a practical ex- 
perience of over ten years at cutting and teaching garment cut- 
ting, I concluded that this knowledge could best be conveyed by 
marking the various parts of the implement with the names of 
the parts of the j)erson and seams of tlie dress for which they 
were used. 



Then by illugtrations of a lady's form, accompanied with ex- 
plicit rules, show how to measure correctly with the same parts 
marked on the cuts to correspond with those on the scale, and 
also on the diagrams as drawn by the scale. Then with, a series 
of descriptive rules give the exact consecutive positions that 
the scale is placed for all the lines, written in j^lain terms. 
These rules are so explicit that any one can use it without the 
necessity of learning in the ordinary way. Simply take the 
measure according to the rules, then read the description of 
the scale, inspecting it as you read, then proceed to draft the 
first line of the back diagram, placing the scale as shown, and 
marking to the measures as the rule directs, then the next, and 
all the rest in the same way. Thus easily and leisurely pro- 
duce as perfect a pattern as if a skillful expert had drawn it. 
The Paris Scale and this manual are the results of the most 
earnest endeavor, and are offered after thorough and satisfac- 
tory tests. On the basis of the most positively proved merit 
I invite the careful consideration of every lady who shall read 
these lines. 

I am, with the greatest confidence that the Paris Scale will 
be useful to all who try it. 

Yours respectfully. 




Inventor and Proprietor. 
New York, Jan. 10, 1884. 



BAYNE'S PARIS SCALE 



Fruttcli GloTe-Fitlii Sysleni of Dresscittiii, 



BY EXACT MEASURE. 





DESCRIPTION OF TITLE SIDE. 

For convenience in instructing, I have marked the upper left 
hand corner A ; the upper right hand corner B, and we will 
know the space between these letters as the A B edge, where 
will be found the back neck, front neck and side waist scales. 
Below B is C. Between C and the lower end D are the neck, 
shoulder and back curves. From A to D corners are front 



neck, front bust and side bust scales ; also 18 inch scale ruled 
in halves, quarters and eighths. In the centre is the dart rule, 
wliose sides are also scaled in inches and give side-back and 
body lines. 

ON THE BACK OF THE SCALE OR MONOGRAM 

SIDE. 

The corner on the left hand side of the monogram is marked 
a (this is opposite Cap A); to the right hand corner is b ; be- 
tween these corners are the back waist and hip scales ; from 
corner c up the curved edge to corner d are the hip curve and 
arm's eye scales, and from corner a to d are the back and centre 
bust scales. The dart rule is also on this side, so either side 
may be used for darts or side-back and body lines. 

HOW TO MEASURE. 










As the aim is to secure a perfect fit and avoid all necessity 
for changing, a careful observation of the rules and illustra- 
tions will save time in the end. 



First. — Tie a cord tightly around the waist ; see that it is 
well down all around to the smallest part of the form. Then 
measure all the rounds first, commencing with the neck. 

Take the nec-Ji' measure close under the collar at the place 
indicated in the cut. 

Second. — Amis eye meusnre fight, as shown in the cut (you 
cannot take this measure too tight.) 

Third. — Bicsf measure, tight above the fullest part of the 
bust, close under the arms and over the shoulder-blades, as in 
the cut. 

Fourth. — JVaist measure, tight, if very snug fit is required. 
Avoid measuring over belt, watch or buttons. 

Fifth — Hij^ Measure, loosely about 8 inches below the waist, 
as in cut. 

Sixth — Front Measure from the prominent bone in the back 
of the neck, around the side of the neck, and down to the cord 
in front as in cut. (Be sure to get it long enough.) 

Seventh — Bavk Measure, from the same place in the back of 
the neck, down to the cord at the waist (see that it is down to 
the exact hollow of the form.) 

Eighth — Side Measure, from the muscle back of the armpit 
down to the top of the hip (use care to get it long enough.) 

Ninth — Shoulder Pleasure, for a twelve-inch neck measure ofl: 
one and-a-half inches from the centre of the neck, then measure 
from this place to the point of the shoulder. (For other neck 
measures see back neck scale.) 

Tenth — Slope Measure from the cord at the back waist, over 

the centre of the shoulder and down to the cord in front as in 

the cut. 

SLEEVE MEASURE. 

Measure around the arm, elbow and wrist as in cut ; the 

elbow should be bent when measured. Take the length of the 

arm by measuring from the centre of the back to where you 

want the arm seam ; then from this to the point of the elbow, 

from elbow to wrist. 



We here give a measure of a medium form for practice : 

Neck 12 Shoulder 6 

Arm's eye '. . . 13 Slope 32 

Bust 32 Arm 12 

AVaist 24 Elbow 11 

Hip 40 Wrist 8 

Front 18 ''J, Shoulder to Elbow 14 

Back 16 Elbow to Wrist 8 

Side 8 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING THE BACK 
DIAGRAM. 

FOR BACK AND TOP LINES. 

Place the A D edge of the scale even with the left hand edge 
of the paper, make a dot at the edge of the dart-rule nearest 
to you, shove the scale over the A D edge even with this dot, 
which will give you li inches space, draw back line from cor- 
ner A down the scale to the length of the back measure, dot at 
the end of this line, then dot 5 inch below corner A, draw top- 
line from corner A to corner B, dot at the back neck number 
corresponding to neck measure. 

FOR NECK LINE. 

Place corner C to dot on back line, and draw back neck line 
by neck curve to dot on top line. 

TO GET THE SLOPE OF THE SHOULDER, 

Place corner B to corner of back and top lines on the drafting, 
and dot at back-point on the | inch mark on the shoulder line 
on the scale. 

FOR SHOULDER LINE. 

Place the arrow head on neck curve to neck dot on the top 
line, and draw shoulder line over dot made at back point, the 
length of the measure of the shoulder with |-inch added. 

FOR SLOPE LINE. 

Find the centre of the shoulder line already drawn, and 



draw slope line from the centre of the shoulder line to the 
lower end of the back line ; note the exact length of this line. 

TO t}ET THE DISTANCE DOWN FOR BACK BUST LINE. 

Turn the scale over from you, and place the arm's eye No. on the 



TOP LINE 




back arm's eye scale corresponding to the arm's eye measure 
to the farther end of the shoulder line ; have the short line 



10 

under tlie number on tlie scale even witli and on tlie same 
slant as shoulder line, make a dot opposite the diamond on the 
d end of the scale. 

FOR BACK BUST LINE. 
Place the a b edge of the scale on the back line; the a d edge 
even with the dot made at the diamond, and draw hach bust line 
from back line to number on back bust scale corresponding 
to bust measure, and dot at the same number on centre bust 
scale. This line should be at right angles with the back line. 

FOR ARM'S EYE LINE. 

Place the diamond at (/ to the farther end of the bust line and 
draw amis eye line up to the end of shoulder line by following 
the arm's eye curve. 

FOR BACK WAIST LINE. 

Place corner a to the lower end of the back line, Avith the 
a d edge even with the back line, and draw back ivaist line from 
corner a to number on back waist scale corresponding to waist 
measure ; dot at half inch from back line, and at 2 inches, or 
according to taste or fashion. 

FOR SIDE BACK LINE. 

Turn the scale around and place the lower end of the dart 
rule to the farther end of the waist line and draw the side 
back line up the left hand side of the dart rule to the ends of 
back bust and arm's eye lines (note the exact length of this 
line so you can draw side body line on the front diagram the 
same length.) 

FOR BACK CURVE LINE. 

Make a dot on the arm's eye line two-thirds of the way 
down from the shoulder line ; place back curve on the scale to 
this dot, and have the one inch mark on the shoulder line on 
the scale even with the two inch dot on the waist line ; then 
draw baek curve line from arm's eye to dot on the waist line. 

FOR BACK CURVE LINE BELOW THE WAIST. 

Place the d end of the scale to the centre bust dot on back 



11 

bust line, and have the 8 inch mark on the scale even with the 
two inch mark on the waist line ; draw hwl^ curve line helozv the 
tvalst, from the waist to corner a, and before moving the scale 
mark at the hip numbers on both hip scales corresponding to 
hip measure. 

FOR HIP CURYE LINE. 
Place hip curve dot on scale to the second hip dot, and draw 
hip curre line up curved edge of scale to the ends of waist and 
side back lines. 

FOR STRAIGHT HIP LINES. 

Place corner a to first hip dot, and draw sfraujht hip line from 
corner (( up to two inch dot on the waist-line. 

FOR BICK LINE BELOW THE WAIST. 

Place corner a U inches towards you from hack curve heloiv 
vaisf, and draw hack line helow the waist to the | inch dot on the 

waist line. 

FOR BACK TAPER LINE. 

Turn the scale so as to continue this line fi'om the half-inch 

dot on the waist line up to the back bust line (for slender forms 

it is better to draw this line up half-way between the bust and 

top lines.) 



12 

DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING THE FRONT 
DIAGRAM. 



FOR THE FRONT AND TOP LIMES. 

Place the scale to the edge of the pajjer and space at the 

TOP LINE 




edge of the dart-rule, as in back diagram, which will give you 



13 

1| inches for a hem. Draw the fr<))d Jiuc from corner A down 
the scale to the place corresponding to the front measnre less 
the length of neck line on back diagram, dot here, then dot at 
the number corresponding to neck measure on front neck scale, 
draw top line from A to B and dot at front neck number on this 
line, continue front down 10 inches below the waist line. 

FOR FRONT NECK LINE. 

Place corner C to the neck dot on the front line, and draAv front 
neck line bv neck curve up to neck dot on top line. 

TO GET THE SLOPE OF THE SHOULDER. 

Place corner B to the corners of front and top lines, and dot at front point at 
7^ inches on the shoulder line. Place the arrow head to the neck dot on the 
top line, and have the shoulder line edge of the scale even with the dot last 
made; draw a light line the length of shoulder measure and mark across the 
centre of it; then, to get the exact height of the slope line, subtract the length 
of the back slope line from the entire slope measure. The difference should 
give the exact length of front slope line; draw the slope line even with the 
centre of the shoulder. 

FOR SHOULDER LINE. 

Place the arrow head to the neck dot on the top line, and 
have the shoulder line edge of the scale even with the end of 
the slope line and draw the shoulder line the length of shoul- 
der. Measure from the arrow head. 

TO GET THE DISTANCE DOWN FOR FRONT BUST LINE. 

Turn the scale over and place the arm's eye number on the 

front arm's eye scale corresponding to arm's eye measure to 

the farther end of the shoulder line and dot opposite the 

diamond at d. 

FOR FRONT BUST LINE. 

Turn the scale over and place the A B edge even with the 
front line, and the AD edge even with the dot made at the 
diamond, now draw the Front Bust Line, fi'om front line to the 
number corresponding to the bust measure on the front bust 
scale, and dot at the same number on side bust scale. 



14 

FOR SIDE LINE. ' 

Place corner A to side bust dot, tlie A B edge extending from 
you and even with tlie bust line. Now draw b-ide line from cor- 
ner A down to corner D and dot at the place corresponding to 
the side measure at the edge of the scale (length of waist.) 

FOR SIDE WAIST LINE. 

Place corner A to side length dot, the A D edge even with 
the side line, and draw side loaist line to waist number on side 
waist scale corresponding to waist measure. 

TO SPACE FOR SIDE TAPER LINES. 

Place the scale so you can dot |-inch each side of side line. 

FOR SIDE TAPER LINES A AND B. 

Place corner A to side bust dot, the A D edge even with the 
dot on the left hand side of side line, and draw mh taper line 
A from corner A to dot this dot. Then shove the scale over to 
the right-hand dot, and draw side taper line B the same way. 

FOR SIDE BODY LINE. 

Place the lower end of the dart rule to the farther end of the 
side waist line, have the right hand side of the dart-rule (see 
side body line) to the farther end of the bust line, and draw 
side body line from the waist line up the rule the exact length of 
side back line in the back diagram. 

FOR ARM'S EYE LINE. 

Turn the scale over and place the a d edge at d end of tlie 
scale ; the llh inch mark even with the side bust dot ; have 
the curved edge of the scale even with the farther end of the 
shoulder line ; now draw the amis eye line from bust line np 
to the end of the shoulder line ; then turn the scale over and 
place the T> end of the scale to the lower end of the arm's eye 
line and by the back ciirve edge ; continue this line up to the 
top end of the side body line. 



15 

TO (iET THE HIP DOTS. 

Place the a d edge of the scale even with the side line ; the 
8 inch mark on the scale even with the side waist line, dot at 
the hip numbers on both hip scales, corresponding to hij) 
measure. 

FOR HIP CURVE A. 

Place hip curve dot on the scale to the second hip dot and 
draw hip curve A from this dot by the curved edge up to the 
ends of side waist and side body lines. 

FOR HIP CURYE B. 

Place hip curve dot on the scale to the first hip dot, and 
draw hip curve B fi'om this dot up to the lower end of side 
taper line A. 

FOR HIP CURVE C. 

Turn the scale over and space one inch from side towards 
you and even with first and second hip dots ; place the one- 
inch mark on the shoulder line on the scale to the one-inch dot 
and draw hip curve C from this dot up the curved edge to the 
lower end of side taper line B. 

FOR FRONT WAIST LINE. 

Place corner A to the lower end of the front line, and draw 

the fro)it 7caid line by the edge of the scale to the side waist 

line. 

FOR TOP DART LINE. 

Place corner B to side bust dot and dot at corner C, spacino- 
down two inches on the side line ; move the scale across to the 
front line and dot four inches on the front line from the bust 
line ; draw fop dart line between these dots. 

TO t}ET THE SIZE OF THE DARTS. 

Measure the length of the back waist line (back diagram) from 
the half inch dot to the end of the line ; add to this the length 
of side waist line (front diagram) and to the added measures 
so found, space on the front Avaist line to the half of the entire 



16 

waist measure (12 is half of 24) counting out the space between 
the side taper lines, dot at the half of waist measure ; the space 
from this dot to the front waist line will give the size of space 
for both the darts, which divide in two parts ; dot 2 inches from 
the front line, and dot at half the space just found ; make a dot 
in the centre of these dots, and then dot at ^ inch for space 
between the darts ; space for the second dart the same way. 



TO (iET THE CENTRE LINE OF THE FIRST DART BELOW THE 

WAIST. 

Place the A B edge on the bust line ; the A D edge even with 
the centre dot of the first dart ; draw the centre dart line from 
the dot on the waist line down to the lower end of the scale 
and before moving the scale dot at the edge of the scale on top 
dart line ; place corner A to this dot and dot ^ inch to the right 
of last dot made ; now place corner A to the last dot and draw 
centre line fi'om corner A to the centre dot on the waist line. 



FOR SIDE LINES OF DARTS. 

Place the star on the upper end of the dart rule to the top 
of the centre line of the dart ; have the left hand side of the 
rule even with the 2-inch dot on the waist-line ; draw a line be- 
tween these dots by the edge of the rule ; keep the star same 
place, but shove the right hand edge to the farther dot of the 
dart, draw a line from the star to the dot. 

FOR DART LINES BELOW THE WAIST. 

Place corner A to the 2-inch dot on the waist line, the A D 
edge of the scale crossing the centre line at 8 or 9 inches 
according to the form (a stout form should have the shortest 
line) ; draw a straight line down to this point by the edge of the 
scale ; then move the corner A to the farther dart dot, and 
draw a line to the same point below ; repeat the same opera- 
tion for the second dart. 



17 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING THE SLEEVE AND NECK 

BAND. 



BACK SEAM LINE B. 



Place the scale one inch from the edge of the paper and draw 
back seam line B from corner A, two inches longer than the 



:2 IN 




BACK SEAM LINE B 



measure from shoulder to elbow, dot at two inches below corner 
A, and on A B edge at two and four inches. 



SPACE LI>E. 

Place corner A to the two inch dot on back seam line, the A 
B edge extending upward on the line ; draw space line from 
corner A to 9 inches ; this line should be at right angles with 
the back seam line space dots at 7 inch, and at 2 inches on 
this line. 

TO GET THE UPPER END OF FRONT SEAM LINE A. 

Place corner B to the farther end of the space line, the A B 
-edge even with the space line, dot at 1^ inches below B. 



18 

TO «ET THE UPPER END OF FRONT SEAM LINE B. 

Place corner B to the 7-incli dot, A B edge even with space 
line as before, dot at corner C giving 2 inches down fi'om the 
space line. 

UNDER ARM LINE. 

Place 18 near d to the 2-inch dot below the 7 dot on space 
line, have the curved arm's eye edge of the scale even with the 
2-inch dot on the space line, draw under arm, line from 18 to the 
2-inch dot on space line. 

UPPER ARM LINE. 

Place the d corner of the scale to 2-incli dot on back seam 
line B, end of space line ; draw curve line by the edge of the scale 
up to the 4-inch dot above the space line, now place the figure 
18 d end to the 2-inch dot above the space line, have the curved 
edge even with the li-inch dot below 9-inch end of the space 
line, now continue the icp2Jer arm line from the 4:-inch dot to the 
li dot. 

ELBOW LINE. 

Place corner A to the lower end of back seam line B, with 
the B C edge of the scale crossing the back seam line at Ij 
inches from the B corner ; now draw the elboiv line from corner 
A on the A D edge out to 7 inches and dot at 2 inches from 
corner A ; now place the 7-inch mark on the scale to the 2-inch 
mark on the elbow line, then dot at elbow measure. 

BACK SEAM LINE B FROM ELBOW TO WRIST. 

Place corner A to the ends of elbow and back seam line with 
the B C edge crossing the elbow line at li inches from the B 
corner. Now draw back seam line B from elbow to the wrist,, 
the length of the measure taken for that place from corner A 
on the A D edge, and dot on the side back edge of the dart-rule 
opposite the end of this line, also dot on the shoulder line 
opposite. 



19 

WRIST LINE. 

Place corner A to the right hand end of back seam line B, 
the A B edge even with this line ; draw the ivrlst line even with 
the dots here made ; see how much it measures to the farther 
dot, then place the part of the scale that indicates the measure 
to the l|-inch dot, then dot at the exact measure of the wrist. 

• BACK SEAM LINE A. 

Draw straight lines with the straight edge of the scale fi-om 
the 1| inch dot on the wrist to the 2-inch dot on the elbow line, 
then to the 2-inch dot on the space line to get the curves at the 
upper arm ; place figure 10 in the dart rule to the 2-inch dots 
on the space line, and have the lower end of the rule even with 
the seam lines to shape at the elbow ; use curve at the arm's 
eye. 

FRO>T SEAM LINES A AND B. 

Place the lower end of tlie dart rule to the dots at 2 and 1 
inches from the space line, and draw by side body edge to dots 
on the elbow line ; change the scale around, and draw the lines 
from the wrist dots to the elbow dots. 

DIRECTIONS FOR TRACING} AND CITTINW THE LININOS. 

Cut the fronts first ; double the cloth and j^lace. tlie front 
diagram on it with the edge of the paper even with the selvage 
of the cloth, allowing room for a seam above the top line; pin 
together in several places, and lay on a soft board ; then trace 
with a good sharp pointed tracing wheel, using pressure enough 
to mark through both thicknesses of goods ; trace these lines in 
the order given, commencing with the lower end of front line. 
Front, neck, shoulder, arm's eye, to side bust dot, side taper A, 
and hip curve B; trace all the dart lines except top dart line ; 
also trace front waist line ; remove the drafting ; pin the cloth 
together to keep both pieces even ; cut on a slant one half an 
inch above the neck on front line ; cut to the neck and cut 



20 

exactly in the neck ; allow | of an inch above the shoulder 
line ; cut in the arm's eye ; then allow | of inch seam at the 
side and hips ; next, take the back diagram, pin to the cloth as 
before, have the waist line even with the thread of the goods ; 
commence at the lower end of the back line below the waist ; 
trace up this line, back taper back ; neck, shoulder, arm's eye 
to back curve, down curve back to the lower end of straight 
hip lines ; trace waist line, now remove drafting pin and cut, 
allowing seams as before, except at the neck and arm's eye ; 
cut side body next from the front diagram ; pin on to the cloth, 
taking care to have the waist line even with the thread of the 
goods ; commence with hip curve C, trace this line, then side 
taper B, arm's eye, side body, hip curve A, and waist lines ; 
allow for seams except at the arm's eye; now take the back 
diagram, and cut the side back pieces ; have the waist line even 
with the thread of the goods ; pin together ; commence at the 
lower end of back curve line below the waist ; trace this line 
back curve, arm's eye, side, back, hip curve and waistlines; allow 
for seams as before. 

TO TRACE AND CUT SLEEVE LININGS. 

Place the sleeve diagrain on the cloth with the back seam 
lines even with the thread of the goods ; trace the outside lines 
first ; then place the diagram over to another place and trace 
all the inside lines. 



DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING AND BASTING. 



FOR A BASQUE. 

The linings when properly cut will give you a perfect pat- 
tern for a plain basque, wdiich can be easily varied to suit any 
requirement of fashion, either cut away at the front or made 
double-breasted; it can be rounded at the sides, sashed or 
added to in the back skirts as may be wanted. 



21 

TO CUT OUT. 

Lay the fronts on the outside fabric, carefully placing the 
thread of both even with each other. Lay them on a s nooth 
surface and baste all the dart lines, commencing with the cen- 
tre ones, and after these baste smoothly around the outer edges; 
cut out by the edge of the linings. Treat all the rest of the 

pieces the same way. 

TO BASTE. 

Pin the two centre backs together even at the waist line, 
baste from the waist line up to the neck, holding the material 
evenly together; next pin the side back pieces to the centre 
back, observing that the waist lines match exactly. Baste from 
the waist line each way, holding the goods closely together; do 
not make too long stitches; in basting the shoulder seams, 
pin the ends together, then stretch the front to match the 
back, and stitch evenly through the tracings. When you have 
a bias and straight edge together, always hold the bias edge 
towards you. A great deal of care should be taken in basting 
to make a garment set nicely, and even when a garment is cut 
to perfect fit it may be spoiled by being carelessly basted. 

FOR A POLONAISE. 

Place the front lining on the cloth as for a basque, then place 
the side body lining so that the waist lines are even with each 
other and far enough apart to have the side waist line straight 
with the thread of the cloth. Baste at the edges, as before 
directed for a basque, and cut the skirt as full as you want it. 
In cutting out the back of a polonaise, lay the back linings so 
as to have the waist lines even with each other, and place them 
any distance apart that you need to get the fullness for pleat- 
ing or draping that you may want. 

FOR A PRINCESS WRAPPER. 

Run the lines down the skirt on the same slant as the basque 
gives. The fronts may be cut the same as for a polonaise. 

OUTSIDE WRAPS, COATS, SACQUES, ETC. 

Add one inch in all the neck, arm's eye, bust, waist and hip 
measures. 



22 

The rules and directions given are subject to some modifica- 
tions in a few cases which we will briefly mention. In the back 
•diagram, the hack line for a rounded or stooping shoulder re- 
quires " taJiWijiir at the top of the line to fit the form; for a very 
fvill figure it requires " taking in' at the waist-line. For round- 
ed shoulder the hacli' curve line requires taking in at the arm's 
eye. For slender forms the side lines may sometimes have 
to be changed if the bust measure is not taken tight enough. 
Over one thousand fittings made by this method have demon- 
strated that, with correct measures and drafting, proper atten- 
tion being paid to making ujo, eight out of ten will not require 
changing, and those which have required altering from any 
cause whatever have usually been remedied in from five to ten 
minutes. I have given no directions for skirt-cutting, as st3des 
•of drapery have to be left to individual taste; every one should 
try to select appropriate styles. I have compiled a fcAv practi- 
cal suggestions from good authorities for the benefit of those 
who may need them. 

Narrow figures require costumes in which the lines are of- 
ten broken, crosswise; while ample figures need long-bodied 
garments, such as smooth coats and polonaises, with low and 
scant skirt-loopings. Basques are not shut out from any one; 
slender persons choosing what they like, provided trimming 
does not encumber it, and stout ones selecting shapes that are 
shorter on the hips than elsewhere, and finished with almost 
any extension, or postillion at the back. A basque with a 
" straight-around " outline of the skirt is suited only to small 
figures. The bod}- of a dress, i.e., that portion reaching from 
the neck to the hip, is really the part to which the Avord fitting 
is applied, and this, inchiding the sleeves, requires the nicest 
care and handling. Too much of the latter has spoiled much 
fine material. 

As a preliminary, great attention is now paid to the under- 
garments W'Orn in the process of dress-fitting. Short figures 
wear corsets as long in the waist as possible, and the under- 
clothing has flat trimmings around the bust and shoulders. 
Skirts are gathered at the back only, and the sides and fronts 



23 

are shaped by darts, or else small flat pleats. Many ladies 
now wear the corset over the skirts and next to the waist itself 
in the case of the cuirasse basque, as this is made up without 
whalebones. Large hooks set upon the corset fit into the 
loops upon the basques of many French dresses, and these 
hold the garment down Avithout shot or whalebone. 

Tall slender figures requiring greater breadth, wear roomy 
corsets and a corset-cover, well starched. 

If the waist lacks the under-arm slope, this is often su])plied 
by a crescent- shaped piece of inner lining fastened to the arm- 
hole seam. This is a device used also for stout figures which 
are defective in this particular. A " hollow," which is some- 
times seen between the neck and shoulder, is similarly rem- 
edied. If in fitting a waist, it is found necessary to let out, or 
to take in the seams at the belt, the required alteration should 
be made at the under-arm seams, as the darts should remain 
unchanged. 

If sleeves are very tight, they should be cut bias at the top; 
if easy-fitting or loose, they may be straight. 

The general error of the amateur dressmaker consists in 
placing the under-seam of the sleeve too high in front, thus 
causing it to draw and wrinkle across the top of the arm in 
front, producing also too much fullness at the back below the 
shoulder. If a sleeve is cut properly, and set in the arm-hole 
correctly, the figure, plaid, or stripe, will be straight from the 
elbow upward. 

The best fitting dresses have the lining of the body and 
sleeves alike, and if the wearer has long and too thin arms it is 
Avell, when weather admits, to place an interlining in the sleeve, 
and particularly in the upper portion. Ladies with stout fig- 
ures require short shoulder-seams, as this contributes a nar- 
row appearance to the back of the dress. It is necessary to 
consider this in cutting out sleeves, as they require extra 
rounding-up at the top. Sleeves, collars and neck-backs should 
be held toward the person sewing. 

It is, of course, optional with any one to make the hem as 
well as the lap on the front or centre-seam of a basque wider, 



24 

as inclination may suggest, and a very full bust may require 
this hem graduated in width. 

In making up skirts the bias or gored side of the breadths 
are all turned toward the back. The gored sides are held to- 
ward the person sewing, and the seams are commenced at the 
top. The opposite sides of a skirt should perfectly match each 
other, so that they may be trimmed off evenly at the foot be- 
fore finishing. In jDutting a braid on the hem of a skirt, hold 
the braid toward the person. Worsted braids require to^be 
shrunk before using. 



WE HEREWITH GIVE PRICE LIST OF A FEW OF THE 

mM^mimm WMmmiom ^o^mnsL^m^ 

But will furnish any Fashion Journal Published (either For- 
eign or Domestic) at the lowest price. 

FRENCH. 

PER YEAR. 

Bon Ton (with French and English Descriptions). Monthly - - - $6 DO 

Mode El«gante (With English Descriptions). •<...- 6 CO 

Moniteur de la Mode (With English Description), Monthly, - - 5 GO 

Revue de la Mode (With English'Descriptions), Monthly, - - - 3 50 

L'Art de la Mode (With four large colored plates and English Descriptions), Mo., 8 SO 

AMERICAN AND ENOLISH. 

Andrew's Bazar, Monthly, ...-----1 OO 

Demorest's Monthly ....-.-- 1 80 

Domestic Monthly (Including |i.oo in Selected Patterns), • - . 1 OO 

Godey's Lady Book, Monthly, .------ 2 OO 

Harper's Bazar, Weekly, ..------ -4 OO 

Myras Journal, Monthly, ....--- 8 OO 

Milliner and Dressmaker, Monthly, . - - • - - S OO 

Ne^v York Fashion Bazar, Monthly, - - - - • 2 50 

Petersen's Magazine, Monthly, - - - • - - - 2 SO 

The Season, Monthly, ..-.---- 3 SO 

The Young Ladies Journal (With extra Christmas No.), Monthly, - - 4 OO 



IMPORTANT TO DRESSMAKERS. 

THREE PIRST-CL.ASS PUBLICATIONS FOR 

$1.00 per "STear- 
A Special offer —All Purchasers of Bayne's Paris Scale 

Will be supplied, post-free with the following publications, for $i per year : Two Bazar 
Dressmakers, one in March and one in September ; eight copies of the Queen, March, 
April, May, Tune, September, October, November and December. The whole will be 
sent at the time specified. The Bazar Dressmaker is published semi-annuaUy— March 
and September. Each number will represent about 700 fashion cuts, large size, m book 
form, neatly bound for convenient use. This is a standard work on fashion and a gmde 
to dressmakers, showing the leading styles worn in London, Pans and New York. 1 he 
Queen is a four-page fashion paper, published monthly, as stated above. Each number 
will represent about twenty different styles of the very latest fashions for ladies, misses 
and children. The fashion plates are printed on plate paper ; each number will exhibit 
four full fashion cuts for dress and outside garments. These publications are recom- 
mended to Dressmakers and others who make their own garments. The three piK>hca- 
tions will be sent post-free for $1.00 per year. Subscriptions taken at any time. Remit 
cash with order. Address, 

J. R. BAYNE, 

225 Sixth Avenue, New York. 



3iTOI5XSZS 



LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 



014 061 883 4 



IMPROVED PATENT ADJUSTABLE 

DRESS FIGURE. 



Easily adjusted. Enables ladies to fit and 
drape dresses as over their own persons. Will 
accommodate any change in fashion, and is 
indispensable to dress-makers and ladies at 
home. One figure will answer for several 
persons. It can be raised to any desired 
height (and made revolve at will) so that the 
Artist may sit while at work on the bottom of 
the skirt without bending her back. 

Over 10,000 now in use are giving Perfect Satisfaction. 

WAIST EXPANDS. BUST EXPANDS. 

1^0. I Figure. . . .20 to 25}^ inches. . . .32 to 37^^ inches. 

" 3 " 22 to 27X " 34 to 39 H 

" aji " 22 to 27^^ " 361041 " 

" 3 " ....241030 " ....361042 '■ 

" 4 " ....261032 " ....38 to 44 " 

The above sizes are kept constantly on hand. 
Any other size or shape desired made to order 
if proper measures be sent. 

Will save its Cost Several times in a Single Season. 

This Figure will soon pay for itself in saving 
of time lost in taking girls from their work to 
drape and trim skirts on them. 

One of the city's leading Modistes writes : 

" 1 would not part with my Figure for ten times what 
it cost if 1 could not replace it." 

Another writes from Austin, Texas : 

" It gives perfect satisfaciion; I do not know how I 
ever got along without it." 





CLOSED. 



ALL THE LEADIHGiSUIT HOUSES AHD MAHUFACTURERS USE THEH. 
SATISFACTION GUARANTEED OR MONEY REFUNDED. 



Price, $8 ; Packing costs 25 cents. 

I furnish the best and strongest Non-Adjustable Figures at %5 ; Best Papier Mache 
Figures, $5.50 ; Adjustable Draping Stands, $5 (can be raised or lowered as desired — full 
size skirt). Also a Traveling Companion, $3.50, known as the Adjustable Folding 
Draping Stand, which weighs but four pounds, and can be put into a lady's trunk. 
Sent on receipt of order. Remit by draft, P. O. order, or American Express Money Order. 



Address 



J. R. BAYNE, 

Manufacturer's Agent, 

225 Sixth Avenue, New York. 



